Preserving and Enhancing Gulph Mills, Pennsylvania
History and Highlights of Historic Gulph Mills
Scenic charm and historical lore combine to make the Gulph Mills and Rebel Hill region one of the most attractive in the country. (See Highlights of Historic Gulph Mills.) The cleft through the hills, known as Rebel Hill and Widow's Hill, in which Gulph Road was one of the first highways opened west of the Schuylkill out of the City of Philadelphia. Because of the physical surroundings the name "gulph," the old for of the present g-u-l-f, was given to the locality by the pioneer settlers. "G-u-l-p-h" meant not only an arm of the sea but also a depression in the earth, a chasm or abyss. The English poets, Pope and Spencer, used g-u-l-p-h in their poems, but it is now obsolete.
Rebel Hill, the hill to the west, traditionally received its name from the fact that in Revolutionary times, the residents hereabouts espoused the American cause so vehemently that those who upheld the Mother Country called the locality Rebel Hill. Widow's Hill, the hill to the west, received its name, as we are told, when after the Civil War, many of the women were deserted by their soldier husbands who may have found the charms of the Dixie Belles too enticing and remained in the south.
In many cases you will find that origin of the names of many an American town and village was based on the name of the tavern located in its midst or perhaps the original dwelling in the locality. Gulph Mills was originally called Bird-in-Hand for the old Inn or tavern located on the site of 977 Trinity Lane. The original well and spring house are still standing. The Inn was built about 1740, and it originally was a log building. However, a large stone structure was subsequently built around it.
Nine hundred Ninety-One Trinity Lane is the site of the original Bird-in-Hand general store, and Post Office. Records show that the Post Office was officially changes to Gulph Mills in 1830. In the early days mail was delivered twice a week, and the recipient paid for the stamp. It is believed that sometime prior to the Revolutionary War it was unofficially renamed Gulph Mills because of the number of mills along the Gulph Creek. The flour mill which furnished flour and corn meal to the soldiers at Gulph Mills and Valley Forge was built in 1747. a small toy mill was near the flour mill. Children's toys were made there. The foundations may still be seen opposite the Hanging Rock spring. A sawmill operated near the flour mill.
The largest of the mills was the McFarland Mill which was one of the largest woolen mills in the country. The Balmoral Mill located on Balligomingo Road was also a woolen mill. the McFarland Mill dam has disappeared from the community, but the Balmoral dam remains a little upstream from Jones Road Bridge. A short distance form Balmoral was the Tinkler and Townsend Mill, also a woolen mill. It is interesting to know that some mothers took their babies to the mill where a room was furnished for the care of the babies while the mothers worked. This mill was later an ice plant, then a brewery. It should also be noted that there were large iron ore quarries where Rebel Hill and Matsonford Road meet.
Poplar Lane, the home of Isaac Hughes from 1769 to 1782, later became the home of George Nugent. The records tell us that George Nugent, a prosperous merchant, enlarged the home and built the Collegiate Institute for his children and those of his neighbors. The walls of the school were two and one-half feet thick. The school was a success. About 1840 it became the home of the Academy of Natural Sciences and was also used as a meeting place for the Upper Merion Lyceum. The Institute was vacant for many years and burned January 18, 1932.
At Poplar Lane, 1000 Boxwood court, the date 1758 was found on the fireback of an old fireplace.
The Bird-in-Hand School, adjoining Poplar Lane, was built in 1870. It was a two room school and the Lyceum met there for several years.
It can be noted from a date stone on the bridge that crosses Gulph Creek at Trinity Lane, that it was built by Montgomery County, Upper Merion Township, 1789, in the second year of the Federal Union. Each year the flower boxes on the bridge are planted and maintained by the Civic Association.
The bridge that crosses the creek at Arden Road was, for many years, called "Lover's Bridge". The road leads to the section of the village which was called "Widow Hill."
Records do not tell just where Washington's headquarters were as some of his letters were dated "Headquarters Gulph Mill," others "near the gulph" and one to the Board of War was dated "Headquarters Gulph Creek, 14th December, 1777," It is thought the Headquarters were the Hughs home at the Walnut Grove Farm now a part of the Gulph Mills golf course.
General Lafayette's Headquarters was at the site where the Mary MacFarland Cutler's home stood. The Mary Cutler home was torn down to build the Gulph Mills approach to the Expressway. Part of the landscaping of the home can be observed today.
Aaron Burr was the home of Jonathan Sturgis, now the Picket Post Restaurant. General Nathaniel Green was at the Zimmerman Supplee home, 184 Holstein Road. General Sterling, who had charge of the outpost at Gulph Mills, spent the winter at the home of Jon Rees on Rebel Hill.
Apart form the usual routine of any army at rest, the incidents connected with the encampment at Gulph Mills are few. When the Army lay at Valley Forge, however, the Gulph was an important post. Colonel Aaron Burr was eventually made commander of Picket Post. On several occasions, enemy soldiers were captured nearby and made prisoners.
The establishment of winter quarters at Valley Forge was apparently not decided upon until December 17th. This uncertainty accounts for the lengthened period of the encampment at the Gulph, and it may not be too much to say that in all probability this locality was also taken into consideration as possible winter quarters. In any event, at ten o'clock on Friday morning, December 19, the army marched from the Gulph to Valley Forge.
It is clear form the foregoing that the Gulph Mills and Rebel Hill area is historic soil. Here have passed and repassed the suffering band of heroes, soldiers of the Revolution, men whose names are history itself whose deeds are a cherished inheritance: Washington, Greene, Knox, Lafayette, Sterling and Wayne. Our village was the threshold to Valley Forge, and the story of that winter, a story of endurance, forbearance and patriotism which will never grow old, had its beginning here at the six day's encampment in Gulph Mills.
(Historical facts drawn from an article on Gulph Mills and Rebel Hill by M. Regina Steiteler Supplee.)
Scenic charm and historical lore combine to make the Gulph Mills and Rebel Hill region one of the most attractive in the country. (See Highlights of Historic Gulph Mills.) The cleft through the hills, known as Rebel Hill and Widow's Hill, in which Gulph Road was one of the first highways opened west of the Schuylkill out of the City of Philadelphia. Because of the physical surroundings the name "gulph," the old for of the present g-u-l-f, was given to the locality by the pioneer settlers. "G-u-l-p-h" meant not only an arm of the sea but also a depression in the earth, a chasm or abyss. The English poets, Pope and Spencer, used g-u-l-p-h in their poems, but it is now obsolete.
Rebel Hill, the hill to the west, traditionally received its name from the fact that in Revolutionary times, the residents hereabouts espoused the American cause so vehemently that those who upheld the Mother Country called the locality Rebel Hill. Widow's Hill, the hill to the west, received its name, as we are told, when after the Civil War, many of the women were deserted by their soldier husbands who may have found the charms of the Dixie Belles too enticing and remained in the south.
In many cases you will find that origin of the names of many an American town and village was based on the name of the tavern located in its midst or perhaps the original dwelling in the locality. Gulph Mills was originally called Bird-in-Hand for the old Inn or tavern located on the site of 977 Trinity Lane. The original well and spring house are still standing. The Inn was built about 1740, and it originally was a log building. However, a large stone structure was subsequently built around it.
Nine hundred Ninety-One Trinity Lane is the site of the original Bird-in-Hand general store, and Post Office. Records show that the Post Office was officially changes to Gulph Mills in 1830. In the early days mail was delivered twice a week, and the recipient paid for the stamp. It is believed that sometime prior to the Revolutionary War it was unofficially renamed Gulph Mills because of the number of mills along the Gulph Creek. The flour mill which furnished flour and corn meal to the soldiers at Gulph Mills and Valley Forge was built in 1747. a small toy mill was near the flour mill. Children's toys were made there. The foundations may still be seen opposite the Hanging Rock spring. A sawmill operated near the flour mill.
The largest of the mills was the McFarland Mill which was one of the largest woolen mills in the country. The Balmoral Mill located on Balligomingo Road was also a woolen mill. the McFarland Mill dam has disappeared from the community, but the Balmoral dam remains a little upstream from Jones Road Bridge. A short distance form Balmoral was the Tinkler and Townsend Mill, also a woolen mill. It is interesting to know that some mothers took their babies to the mill where a room was furnished for the care of the babies while the mothers worked. This mill was later an ice plant, then a brewery. It should also be noted that there were large iron ore quarries where Rebel Hill and Matsonford Road meet.
Poplar Lane, the home of Isaac Hughes from 1769 to 1782, later became the home of George Nugent. The records tell us that George Nugent, a prosperous merchant, enlarged the home and built the Collegiate Institute for his children and those of his neighbors. The walls of the school were two and one-half feet thick. The school was a success. About 1840 it became the home of the Academy of Natural Sciences and was also used as a meeting place for the Upper Merion Lyceum. The Institute was vacant for many years and burned January 18, 1932.
At Poplar Lane, 1000 Boxwood court, the date 1758 was found on the fireback of an old fireplace.
The Bird-in-Hand School, adjoining Poplar Lane, was built in 1870. It was a two room school and the Lyceum met there for several years.
It can be noted from a date stone on the bridge that crosses Gulph Creek at Trinity Lane, that it was built by Montgomery County, Upper Merion Township, 1789, in the second year of the Federal Union. Each year the flower boxes on the bridge are planted and maintained by the Civic Association.
The bridge that crosses the creek at Arden Road was, for many years, called "Lover's Bridge". The road leads to the section of the village which was called "Widow Hill."
Records do not tell just where Washington's headquarters were as some of his letters were dated "Headquarters Gulph Mill," others "near the gulph" and one to the Board of War was dated "Headquarters Gulph Creek, 14th December, 1777," It is thought the Headquarters were the Hughs home at the Walnut Grove Farm now a part of the Gulph Mills golf course.
General Lafayette's Headquarters was at the site where the Mary MacFarland Cutler's home stood. The Mary Cutler home was torn down to build the Gulph Mills approach to the Expressway. Part of the landscaping of the home can be observed today.
Aaron Burr was the home of Jonathan Sturgis, now the Picket Post Restaurant. General Nathaniel Green was at the Zimmerman Supplee home, 184 Holstein Road. General Sterling, who had charge of the outpost at Gulph Mills, spent the winter at the home of Jon Rees on Rebel Hill.
Apart form the usual routine of any army at rest, the incidents connected with the encampment at Gulph Mills are few. When the Army lay at Valley Forge, however, the Gulph was an important post. Colonel Aaron Burr was eventually made commander of Picket Post. On several occasions, enemy soldiers were captured nearby and made prisoners.
The establishment of winter quarters at Valley Forge was apparently not decided upon until December 17th. This uncertainty accounts for the lengthened period of the encampment at the Gulph, and it may not be too much to say that in all probability this locality was also taken into consideration as possible winter quarters. In any event, at ten o'clock on Friday morning, December 19, the army marched from the Gulph to Valley Forge.
It is clear form the foregoing that the Gulph Mills and Rebel Hill area is historic soil. Here have passed and repassed the suffering band of heroes, soldiers of the Revolution, men whose names are history itself whose deeds are a cherished inheritance: Washington, Greene, Knox, Lafayette, Sterling and Wayne. Our village was the threshold to Valley Forge, and the story of that winter, a story of endurance, forbearance and patriotism which will never grow old, had its beginning here at the six day's encampment in Gulph Mills.
(Historical facts drawn from an article on Gulph Mills and Rebel Hill by M. Regina Steiteler Supplee.)
Highlights of Historic Gulph Mills
1. Walnut Grove Farm
2. Poplar Lane
3. Bird-in-Hand School
4. Farm House
A. Barn
5. Blacksmith
6. Farm House
7. Bird-in-Hand Post Office
& General Store
8. Wheelwright
9-12. Millworkers Houses
13,14. Mill
Walnut Grove Farm -- the land, part of a grant form William Penn in 1684, was purchased by John Hughes c. 1769 who built the original house on Swedeland Road and farmed the tract, mined the limestone and built Poplar Lane for his son Isaac Hughes. Isaac Hughes built and resided in a larger home after his father's death, which is now part of Gulph Mills Golf Club.
Popular Lane -- built by John Hughes in 1758 for his son Lt. Col. Isaac Hughes, was added onto in 1861 by the Lowerys and the pillared section put on in 1824 by George Nugent whose son had a woolen mill at Gulph Creek. The property was named "Ballygamingo" in 1820 by Bethel Morris, after his home in Wales
Bird-in-Hand School House -- the land was deeded in 1811 to Richard Roberts with permission to build a dam in Gulph Creek. In 1870 one acre was sold to Upper Merion School district for the Bird-in-Hand Public School and around 1931 Judge Fred Smilie converted it to a private residence.
Farm House and Barn -- Built by Zimmerman Supplee in 1735, it was the headquarters of General Nathaniel Greene during the Revolutionary War. About the time of enlarging the house in the 1850's the first bathroom with indoor plumbing in Gulph Mills was installed. The barn, where Washington's horse was believed to have been tethered, was converted to a residence in the 1930's. It was repaired after a fire in 1996.
Blacksmith Shop -- built c. 1701, it was part of the original Bird-in-Hand settlement and a vital part of the way of life. The Shop serviced wagons and horses of voyagers at the Bird-in-Hand Inn located on the road to Lancaster.
Gulph Pointe -- originally built c. 1725 as a farm house. It had 2 front doors and 2 parlors, commonly found in early Welsh Quaker houses, to separate men from women. Its location and vintage definitely indicate it as an integral part of the village.
Bird-in-Hand Post Office & General Store -- was built c. 1750 and 1790 was the Bird-in-Hand Post Office until 1830 when it became Gulph Mills Post Office -- then the first Post Office in Upper Merion. Isaac Mullen ran the store and was Post Master until 1923. The Post Office and Village had the name from the Bird-in-Hand Inn next door which was destroyed by fire leaving only the well and spring house to see.
Wheelwright/ Carriage Shop -- built in 1700's, the land was part of the McFarland tract - mansion, dam and mill - that was razed in 1950 when the Expressway was built. The shop gradually deteriorated to a garage before conversion to a residence in 1931. It is located on Gulph Creek where it passes under a 200 year-old bridge on the road to the west.
Millworker's Houses -- five of 26 homes (17 buildings) along Gulph Creek on Ballygo Road that were built between 1750 - 1850 for workers at the nearby textile mills. The community of Ballygo was part of the Welsh Barony, a grant from William Penn in 1682, with several mills, dams and even a Post Office in 1832. At least one of the houses had black paint on the porch trim for Lincoln's assassination, and artifacts have been found in the gardens along the creek and under floors. Most of the homes are twin and even and outhouse was put on both sides of the property line. The lake formed by the one remaining dam, Balmoral, was used only recently for swimming, fishing and skating and today is a haven for wild geese, etc. Balygo road, though paved, is essentially the same as when laid out before 1713 over a wagon trail.
Mill, Mill Race & Dam -- the mill building dates to the mid 1700's and although it's early uses are unknown, by 1850 it was a woolen mill. About 1892 it was converted to a brewery producing fine beer due to the high quality of the local grain and water, and many of the bottles have been found along the creek. Much of the mill complex is evident today from the ruins and the large building now adapted to a residence.
Bird-in-Hand / Gulph Mills has a truly rich heritage dating from 1600's that has been virtually unknown and ignored since the turn of the 20th century. William Penn (Welsh Quaker) made a grant in 1682 of a vast acreage to the Welsh in America that became the "Welsh Barony" with the first settlers in 1696. This tract was divided into 2 sections - the Upper section was a major part of Mount Joy Manor, Penn's grant to his daughter, Letitia, while the land across the Schuylkill River between Widow's and Rebel Hills became Gulph Mills. The Lower section was granted to John Pennington (Merion, Goshen and Haverford Townships) where Welsh Quakers purchased 40,000 acres and have left their imprint with Welsh names and meeting houses still in use today.
Gulph Mills, prior to 1830 known as Bird-in-Hand, was the beginning of the Hundred-Mile Woods to Harrisburg and beyond on Old Lancaster Pike - the original Indian Path / Wagon Trail/ road from Philadelphia to Lancaster. Roads in Gulph Mills were laid out prior to 1713 on wagon trails and Gulph Road is the second oldest in the township. It went from Valley Forge through King of Prussia (Reesville) and Gulph Mills (past the 400 year old Washington Oak that died in 1990,on down to Lower Merion where Penn's Milestones are still standing.
The Hughes, Holstein and Henderson families, early Welsh settlers in the Gulph, built the first Common School on land given by Roberts which has been restored by the King of Prussia Historical Society. There was another school of DeKalb Pike that became successively Stewart Fund Hall and the Upper Merion Township building (recently razed).
The first Swedish settler was Nils Matson in 1656 whose descendent Jon Matson settled on a grant along the Schuylkill in 1714, ran a ferry and gave his name to Matsonford Road. On this road, near, near Old Gulph road, was a school that was used by the Lyceum for meetings in the 1850's and is still being used today as a Day care School next to the Gulph United Church. It was Matsons Ford that Washington's Army used first on December 12th, 1777 before crossing at Swedesford and camping at the Gulph from December 13-19th.
Along Gulph Creek there were: 4 bridges - Upper Gulph Road, arden road, Trinity Lane and Jones Road; several dams of which the Balmoral (along Ballygo Road) is the sole survivor; and 5 mills with the ruins at the lower and of Ballygo Road the only evidence of their existence. Even though the dam, grist mill and mill house at Upper Gulph Road are gone, the old barn,one of the oldest in Pennsylvania and in constant use for 243 years, still stands in spite of developers' excavating and earth moving up to its walls having endangered its future.
The natural resources of this area provided livelihoods and occupations for the early settlers - waterways gave power for mills producing grain, paper, textiles, toys, a slaughterhouse and a brewery. Not only do many of the buildings and roadways of the early settlers remain in use but many of their descendants continue to live in the same locality enjoying its natural beauty.
1. Walnut Grove Farm
2. Poplar Lane
3. Bird-in-Hand School
4. Farm House
A. Barn
5. Blacksmith
6. Farm House
7. Bird-in-Hand Post Office
& General Store
8. Wheelwright
9-12. Millworkers Houses
13,14. Mill
Walnut Grove Farm -- the land, part of a grant form William Penn in 1684, was purchased by John Hughes c. 1769 who built the original house on Swedeland Road and farmed the tract, mined the limestone and built Poplar Lane for his son Isaac Hughes. Isaac Hughes built and resided in a larger home after his father's death, which is now part of Gulph Mills Golf Club.
Popular Lane -- built by John Hughes in 1758 for his son Lt. Col. Isaac Hughes, was added onto in 1861 by the Lowerys and the pillared section put on in 1824 by George Nugent whose son had a woolen mill at Gulph Creek. The property was named "Ballygamingo" in 1820 by Bethel Morris, after his home in Wales
Bird-in-Hand School House -- the land was deeded in 1811 to Richard Roberts with permission to build a dam in Gulph Creek. In 1870 one acre was sold to Upper Merion School district for the Bird-in-Hand Public School and around 1931 Judge Fred Smilie converted it to a private residence.
Farm House and Barn -- Built by Zimmerman Supplee in 1735, it was the headquarters of General Nathaniel Greene during the Revolutionary War. About the time of enlarging the house in the 1850's the first bathroom with indoor plumbing in Gulph Mills was installed. The barn, where Washington's horse was believed to have been tethered, was converted to a residence in the 1930's. It was repaired after a fire in 1996.
Blacksmith Shop -- built c. 1701, it was part of the original Bird-in-Hand settlement and a vital part of the way of life. The Shop serviced wagons and horses of voyagers at the Bird-in-Hand Inn located on the road to Lancaster.
Gulph Pointe -- originally built c. 1725 as a farm house. It had 2 front doors and 2 parlors, commonly found in early Welsh Quaker houses, to separate men from women. Its location and vintage definitely indicate it as an integral part of the village.
Bird-in-Hand Post Office & General Store -- was built c. 1750 and 1790 was the Bird-in-Hand Post Office until 1830 when it became Gulph Mills Post Office -- then the first Post Office in Upper Merion. Isaac Mullen ran the store and was Post Master until 1923. The Post Office and Village had the name from the Bird-in-Hand Inn next door which was destroyed by fire leaving only the well and spring house to see.
Wheelwright/ Carriage Shop -- built in 1700's, the land was part of the McFarland tract - mansion, dam and mill - that was razed in 1950 when the Expressway was built. The shop gradually deteriorated to a garage before conversion to a residence in 1931. It is located on Gulph Creek where it passes under a 200 year-old bridge on the road to the west.
Millworker's Houses -- five of 26 homes (17 buildings) along Gulph Creek on Ballygo Road that were built between 1750 - 1850 for workers at the nearby textile mills. The community of Ballygo was part of the Welsh Barony, a grant from William Penn in 1682, with several mills, dams and even a Post Office in 1832. At least one of the houses had black paint on the porch trim for Lincoln's assassination, and artifacts have been found in the gardens along the creek and under floors. Most of the homes are twin and even and outhouse was put on both sides of the property line. The lake formed by the one remaining dam, Balmoral, was used only recently for swimming, fishing and skating and today is a haven for wild geese, etc. Balygo road, though paved, is essentially the same as when laid out before 1713 over a wagon trail.
Mill, Mill Race & Dam -- the mill building dates to the mid 1700's and although it's early uses are unknown, by 1850 it was a woolen mill. About 1892 it was converted to a brewery producing fine beer due to the high quality of the local grain and water, and many of the bottles have been found along the creek. Much of the mill complex is evident today from the ruins and the large building now adapted to a residence.
Bird-in-Hand / Gulph Mills has a truly rich heritage dating from 1600's that has been virtually unknown and ignored since the turn of the 20th century. William Penn (Welsh Quaker) made a grant in 1682 of a vast acreage to the Welsh in America that became the "Welsh Barony" with the first settlers in 1696. This tract was divided into 2 sections - the Upper section was a major part of Mount Joy Manor, Penn's grant to his daughter, Letitia, while the land across the Schuylkill River between Widow's and Rebel Hills became Gulph Mills. The Lower section was granted to John Pennington (Merion, Goshen and Haverford Townships) where Welsh Quakers purchased 40,000 acres and have left their imprint with Welsh names and meeting houses still in use today.
Gulph Mills, prior to 1830 known as Bird-in-Hand, was the beginning of the Hundred-Mile Woods to Harrisburg and beyond on Old Lancaster Pike - the original Indian Path / Wagon Trail/ road from Philadelphia to Lancaster. Roads in Gulph Mills were laid out prior to 1713 on wagon trails and Gulph Road is the second oldest in the township. It went from Valley Forge through King of Prussia (Reesville) and Gulph Mills (past the 400 year old Washington Oak that died in 1990,on down to Lower Merion where Penn's Milestones are still standing.
The Hughes, Holstein and Henderson families, early Welsh settlers in the Gulph, built the first Common School on land given by Roberts which has been restored by the King of Prussia Historical Society. There was another school of DeKalb Pike that became successively Stewart Fund Hall and the Upper Merion Township building (recently razed).
The first Swedish settler was Nils Matson in 1656 whose descendent Jon Matson settled on a grant along the Schuylkill in 1714, ran a ferry and gave his name to Matsonford Road. On this road, near, near Old Gulph road, was a school that was used by the Lyceum for meetings in the 1850's and is still being used today as a Day care School next to the Gulph United Church. It was Matsons Ford that Washington's Army used first on December 12th, 1777 before crossing at Swedesford and camping at the Gulph from December 13-19th.
Along Gulph Creek there were: 4 bridges - Upper Gulph Road, arden road, Trinity Lane and Jones Road; several dams of which the Balmoral (along Ballygo Road) is the sole survivor; and 5 mills with the ruins at the lower and of Ballygo Road the only evidence of their existence. Even though the dam, grist mill and mill house at Upper Gulph Road are gone, the old barn,one of the oldest in Pennsylvania and in constant use for 243 years, still stands in spite of developers' excavating and earth moving up to its walls having endangered its future.
The natural resources of this area provided livelihoods and occupations for the early settlers - waterways gave power for mills producing grain, paper, textiles, toys, a slaughterhouse and a brewery. Not only do many of the buildings and roadways of the early settlers remain in use but many of their descendants continue to live in the same locality enjoying its natural beauty.